How Monster Waves Like Jaws, Nazaré and Maverick’s Are Actually Made

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1960s surf-poster illustration of a tiny anonymous silhouette surfer on a towering teal wave under a banded sunset skyIllustration

Storm wind builds long-period swell that travels for days; at Jaws, Nazaré and Maverick’s, underwater canyons and reefs focus that energy like a lens. Shoaling and refraction jack ordinary deep-water swell into the teepees and freefalls big-wave spots are famous for.

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